Before You Go: Essential Albania Road Trip Planning Tips

• Road trip: Albania is basically built for road trips. The journey itself and the landscapes will end up being one of the highlights of your trip. The country is relatively small, so getting around doesn’t take forever. If you follow this itinerary, your longest driving days won't go beyond 3-4 hours in the car.
• Driving in Albania: Driving around Albania will likely be more stressful than in your home country and there are a few local habits you’ll need to get used to: erratic local drivers who drive like they’re escaping a movie chase scene, winding mountain passes and the occasional livestock in the middle of the road. Plus, some of the paths to those hidden beaches or remote areas are rough, dusty, and not exactly smooth sailing. I recommend renting a vehicle with decent clearance like a 4WD.
• Best time to travel: The main summer season (June-September) is the hottest, but be warned: July and August are by far the busiest months. Expect the Riviera beaches to be completely chock-a-block. For a more relaxed experience with great weather, I highly recommend the shoulder seasons of May, late September, or early October. You'll find fewer crowds but most places will still be open and weather is still amazing.
• The pace of this itinerary: Let’s be clear, this is an ambitious itinerary designed to see most of the highlights in the country, not exactly a slow-burn holiday. If you prefer a more relaxed pace, I’d suggest picking a few key regions and spending more time in fewer places.
• Budget: the “cheap Maldives of Europe” version you see online does not exist anymore. For years, Albania was one of Europe’s best-kept secrets, but the word is definitely out and prices followed its popularity. While the inner part of the country remains cheap compared to Western Europe, be prepared to pay more than you expected on the Riviera (hello, Ksamil).

Day 1: Arrival in Tirana, stop at Krujë and settling into Shkodra

Once you land in Tirana, the first 2 things that need sorting are 1) getting a local SIM card and 2) withdrawing some LEKs.

Since Albania isn’t in the EU, your usual mobile plan probably won’t cover you without racking up some hefty roaming charges. The two main mobile providers (Vodafone and One) have stores right at the airport so it’s super easy to sort out before you hit the road (expect to pay ~26€ for unlimited minutes and 40 GB data). Alternatively, if your phone supports E-SIMs, you can look at offers from Airalo or Holafly but I don't have experience with these providers.

Cash is still king in Albania and the local currency is the LEK. While EUR is now widely accepted, I strongly suggest you withdraw enough LEK at the airport as you'll need them in remote mountain areas. ATMs often charge hefty fees (6-7€), so withdraw bigger amounts less often.

After picking up your car, direction the first stop: the town of Krujë.

Here, everything celebrates Skanderbeg, the hero of Albanian resistance against the Ottomans (keep this name in mind, he has an entire square to his name in Tirana). Take time to explore:

• The historic castle, now housing the Skanderbeg Museum | 5€ entrance fee (cash only)
• The Ethnographic Museum | 6€ entrance fee (cash only)
• The 500-year-old Ottoman Krujë Bazaar. While atmospheric, it’s not a bustling locals’ market anymore and it's mostly tourist trade (souvenirs, rugs, old uniforms, etc.). I still like it for browsing and a few good workshops but don't expect too much authenticity.

Continue your drive to the final destination of the day: Shkodra, the perfect getaway to your upcoming journey into the Albanian Alps.

Day 2 - Gateway to the Alps

Route: Shkodër → Koman → Fierze → Valbonë (via buses and ferry)

On day 2, get ready for a long but spectacular travel day (approx. 7–8 hours). You leave the car behind in Shkodra and take a shuttle to Koman around 06:30. Meeting point will be either in the Migjeni Theater area or Rozafa Hotel area depending on the operator you're going with. The ticket costs 8-10€.

You'll arrive in Koman just on time to board the 9.00AM ferry across Komani Lake to Fierze (10€). It is often described as one of the most scenic boat rides in the Balkans. The boat navigates a scenic reservoir, and the trip feels like sailing down a fjord, with steep, green cliffs plunging into the turquoise water.

Once arrived in Fierzë, a connecting bus will drop you at your Valbonë guesthouse. There’s no simple public bus timetable here, it’s usually minibus/van transfers timed to the ferry, often sold as part of the same ticketing ecosystem.

Valbonë is quiet. Expect guesthouse dinners, early nights, and a very “mountain valley” rhythm.

Day 3 - Valbona to Theth Hike

This is the day that many people come to Albania for. The full-day hike from Valbona to Theth is, without exaggeration, one of Europe's great hikes and a true highlight of this trip. The trail is a key section of the much larger "Peaks of the Balkans" loop, a 192km route that crosses through Albania, Montenegro, and Kosovo.

The path takes you up and over the Valbona Pass, rewarding your efforts with absolutely breathtaking scenery. The effort is rewarded with a view along the Valbona Valley that is, simply put, spectacular. It’s a long, challenging day, but the payoff is immense.

After a full day of trekking, you'll descend into the peaceful village of Theth and check into a local guesthouse for a well-earned dinner and rest!

Day 4 - Day in Theth & return to Shkodra

You can spend the morning hiking to the Blue Eye. You could walk all the way from Theth but it's mostly a dusty road walk. Instead, ask a local driver to drive you to Nderlysaj for about €5–€10. From there, you can hike the final 45 minutes through the beautiful forest section. You'll arrive to a vibrantly turquoise, ice-cold spring hidden in the forest.

I highly recommend you to make a stop at the Grunas waterfall on your way back if time allows. If you drove to Theth, you can park your car near this bridge, and from there it's an easy 30-minute detour that is well worth the extra effort!

Your transport, likely a 4x4 or minibus, will pick you up in Theth for the journey back down the mountains to Shkodra. Schedules vary by season and operator, but a common pattern is 2 departures from Theth back to Shkodra, often around 11:00 and 17:00. If you want a full day in Theth, you’re realistically aiming for the later transport, unless you start hiking very early and keep breaks short. Departure point is usually by the Mini Market Jezerca.

Day 5 - Shkodër, Shiroka & Lake Kayaking

Take a short drive to the village of Shiroka, the best access point for Lake Shkodra. This is the biggest lake in the Balkans, with the border with Montenegro running right through the middle of it. The Albanian side, especially around Shiroka, gives you a wonderful sense of its scale and tranquility. I highly recommend going on a SUP tour on the lake to access the nature reserve where the lake is covered with water lilies.

You can enjoy a fresh, traditional lunch at a lakeside restaurant in Shiroka (the local dish is the tavë krapi, a carp casserole with onions and walnut sauce) and walk the lakeside promenade. It's a perfect way to spend the afternoon!

You can end the day either enjoying a sunset from Rozafa Castle, strolling the center of Shkodra or hitting the road direction the next stop: Berat. The drive from Shkodra to Berat is fairly long (~3 hours), so if you decide to spend a full day around Shkodra, I'd recommend to spend a final night there and leave early morning the next day.

Day 6 - Berat, the 'City of a Thousand Windows'

Berat is a UNESCO World Heritage site known as the "City of a Thousand Windows" for its beautiful Ottoman-era architecture. The charm lies in its two old neighbourhoods, Mangalem and Gorica, sitting across from each other on either side of the Osum River, each with its own unique vibe and history.

Your day will mostly consist in getting lost in the maze of narrow cobblestone lanes that wind through Mangalem and Gorica and crossing the bridges chasing different angles for postcard-worthy views.

Towards the end of the day, make your way up to the dramatic Berat castle that crowns the hill. You'll get unbeatable views over Gorica and the new part of town at sunset. This is not just “ruins on a hill.” It’s a lived-in neighborhood inside castle walls with homes, small cafés, museums and viewpoints.

Day 7 - Wine and Food in the Hills of Roshnik

The area around Berat is one of the best in Albania for winery visits, producing superb wines from native grapes that are well worth seeking out.

I recommending heading into the surrounding verdant valleys for a taste of rural Albania and visiting the small village of Roshnik, 30min drive away from Berat.

You'll find vineyards, olive groves, and traditional stone architecture with the majestic Mount Tomorr in the background. But the absolute highlight of a day in Roshnik is to join a traditional cooking class followed by a wine tasting at a local family-run winery. It’s an authentic and delicious way to connect with the region’s rich agricultural heritage and you'll experience true Albanian hospitality!

Day 8 - Day trip to Bogova Waterfall and Osumi Canyon

Today, you're exploring the rugged natural beauty of the region around Berat. A popular day trip takes you to the nearby Bogova Waterfall for a (very!) refreshing swim and to the Osumi Canyon, a spectacular river gorge that you can hike through in summer. Now, a couple of notes:

• The drive from Berat to Bogovë is about 1 hour. Then to the canyon, it’s another 45–60 minutes. While paved, the roads are winding, narrow, and often potholed. Drive carefully and if you get motion sickness, take medication before you leave Berat.
• To reach the waterfall, you can park your car here and finish on foot (~20min walk on a dirt road). While parking is free, you might meet young men asking you for 500 LEK for parking. This is a scam, don't pay. There is another free parking lot a bit further down the road but the road is very bad with big holes.
• To enter the canyon, drive to this point. You'll find a parking and a couple of restaurants on site. From there, you can explore the canyon on foot. Keep in mind that you'll have no choice but to swim in some parts of the canyon as the water will still be too high to just walk. However, you'll never swim more than 5 minutes at any given time.
• Osumi can be two totally different experiences depending on the season. In spring (March-June), water in the canyon is high and this is rafting/tubing season. You cannot walk the riverbed. A typical rafting day from Berat can start around 8:30 and includes transport (~1h45 each way), safety briefing, ~2h rafting, and lunch. In summer (July-September), the water level drops considerably and this is "river hiking" season. You can swim and explore the "gates" of the canyon on foot, which I did.

Day 9 - Driving the Albanian Riviera to Himare

Leave early in the morning, it’s time to head for the coast! This drive is absolutely amazing, taking you through wide open green valleys and culminating in the breathtaking Llogara Pass. This zigzagging route is one of Europe's most dramatic drives, offering spectacular views as it descends towards the Ionian Sea.

Keep driving for 15 min after the pass and you'll reach the beautiful old village of Dhërmi. Perched on the hill, this well-maintained old town is full of cobblestone alleys and white-washed stone houses. It's definitely worth a 1-hour stop to climb to the Monastery of St. Mary at the very top of the village for another amazing view of the coast.

Your next stop on the Riviera is the famous Gjipe beach. This beautiful cove still has an undiscovered feel (although it's no longer a secret), largely because you can't drive directly to it. You have to park your car 20-30 minute away and be prepared for a hike down a rocky path to reach the pebbly shore. You'll probably regret the walk back up when arrive at your car drenched in sweat, but it's worth every step!

After your first afternoon on the beach, continue your drive south and check into your accommodation in the lovely coastal town of Himarë for the night.

Day 10 - Coastal exploration

Route: Himarë → Porto Palermo → Borsh/Buneci → Sarandë

If you’re anything like me and prefer places that aren’t swamped with giant resorts, Himarë will probably hit the sweet spot for you too. Besides, the beaches around here are actually great and you’ll find plenty that aren’t completely taken over by private beach clubs like in the South. I'm not the type of traveller who likes spending an entire day at the beach which means this day includes a balanced mix of driving, exploration and down time at the beach. Instead, feel free to take a well-deserved break at one of the nearby beaches after 9 days spent on the road!

After exploring Himarë, continue your journey south along the stunning coastal road. Your first stop is the bay of Porto Palermo, dominated by an imposing triangular castle. The interior is mostly empty stone rooms but the roof will provide beautiful views over the bay and the nearby abandoned submarine tunnel (visible to the north).

Located 15min drive away from Porto Palermo, Borsh beach is longest beach on the Albanian Riviera (~7km long). Because it's so vast, you’ll see both free zones and paid setups managed by beach clubs so you can pick what's best for you. Borsh is significantly cheaper than its neighbors further South. You can find a set of sunbeds from 10€-15€, compared to 30€+ in Ksamil. Keep in mind Borsh beach is made entirely of pebbles, which means water shoes will make getting in and out of the water much easier and less painful.

Another slightly quieter option would be Buneci beach a bit further South between the villages of Lukovë and Piqeras.

Finally, your drive along this stunning section of the Riviera concludes as you arrive in the bustling city of Sarandë.

Note: if you have time on your way to Sarandë, I'd highly recommend you to stop in the small village of Lukovë. The region is the heart of the "Kalinjot" olive, making the oil peppery, high in polyphenols, and world-class. I made a stop at this small producer for a tasting and some explanation on what makes an award-winning olive oil. The passion of the owner Milto is infectious and you'll leave with a deeper appreciation for the craft behind great olive oil, and a much higher standard the next time you’re in a supermarket aisle!

Day 11 - Sarandë, Butrint National Park & Ksamil

It's important to manage expectations in Sarandë: the town is a large, commercially developed beach resort town and cruise ship stop. It is a concrete jungle compared to Himarë and I was instantly put off by the overly commercial vibe. That said, some of you might still be drawn to it for the lively nightlife and cheaper prices compared to Ksamil further South.

A popular day trip from Sarandë consists in visiting Butrint National Park in the morning and exploring the numerous beaches around Ksamil in the afternoon.

Butrint National Park is widely considered as the country’s most important archaeological sites and has even gained the status of a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site features Greek, Roman, Byzantine, and Venetian ruins in a swampy, shaded forest. I highly recommend visiting early morning at the opening (8.30-9AM) to enjoy the site without the crowds coming by ferry from Corfu and bus from Sarandë.

Cost | 10€ entrance fee

Now, let's talk about Ksamil, the "European Maldives". Chances are you first considered visiting Albania after seeing a dreamy sandy beach picture with electric-blue water located in Ksamil on social media. I hate to break it to you, but this is one of those moments where what you’re hoping for and what you actually get don’t quite line up. Expectation meets a bit of a reality check here:

• There is virtually no free space to put a towel. 95% of the shoreline is owned by beach clubs and it looks like a giant sunbed factory
• Expect to pay 2,500 to 5,000 LEK (€25–€50) for a pair of sunbeds and an umbrella. If you don't pay, you basically can't stay on the beach. Forget about the cheap beach paradise it once was
• In peak summer, you will be shoulder-to-shoulder with thousands of people while beach clubs run loud EDM tracks in the background

You get the picture. If it's a peaceful swimming experience with the sound of the waves you're after, I strongly suggest you reconsider. That said, the area around Ksamil offers some of the most stunning beaches in the country if you're willing to accept the crowds that come with them. Popular ones include Mirror beach (also called Plazhi i Pasqyrave), Shpella e Pëllumbave and Pulëbardhës Beach.

Day 12 - The Blue Eye & Gjirokaster

Today you leave the coast behind and head inland towards the famous Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a stunning natural phenomenon. This deep karst hole is a spring where water bubbles up from deep within the earth. The result is a pool of water that shines a hypnotic bright blue in the sun.

I have to admit I was very surprised to see a giant car park full of cars on arrival. While the Blue Eye is undeniably stunning, the site is now a highly commercialized "nature park" with restaurants, shops, electric scooters and a tourist train. Don't expect a wild nature experience.

From there, continue your drive to the beautiful city of Gjirokastër. Also called the "Stone City", this UNESCO World Heritage site is known for its unique Ottoman tower houses (kulla) and silver-colored limestone streets. Places you should not miss include:

• The Gjirokastër Castle: one of the largest in the Balkans, offering panoramic views over the surrounding countryside and the town below | 400 LEK entrance fee (cash only)
• The Old Bazaar: an intersection of 5 paved streets making the aesthetic heart of the city
• The Ethnographic Museum: housed in the dictator Enver Hoxha’s childhood home

Day 13 - Return to Tirana

Depending on how much you've been able to explore the day prior, you might want to spend the morning in Gjirokastër. The final leg of this road trip takes you back to where it all began: the dynamic, ever-changing capital of Tirana, for a final day of exploration before heading home. This is the longest drive of the trip and takes ~4 hours.

Located mid-way through the drive, Apollonia Archaeological Park makes the perfect stop to spread your legs and explore this ruined city that once a major center of learning and culture. Depending on how many breaks you take, you might just arrive on time to enjoy a sunset from the top of the Pyramid of Tirana, followed by a lively evening in the Blloku district.

Day 14 - Exploration of Tirana

I have to say I was positively surprised by Tirana. I was expecting an average city with communist-era architecture but instead I found a highly cosmopolitan and vibrant city, with an eccentric and unique blend of architecture styles.

If you only have one day left to explore the capital before flying back home, I'd focus on the following:

• Bunk'Art 1 & 2: To understand Tirana, you must understand Albania's decades under a communist dictatorship. The Bunk'Art museums, housed in two massive Cold War-era nuclear shelters, are the most fascinating places in the capital to engage with this history
• House of Leaves: The former headquarters of the secret police’s surveillance unit. It is small, chilling, and fascinating if you like "spy" history. If you only visit one museum, it has to be this one
• Pyramid of Tirana: Once a crumbling monument to a dictator, it is now a cultural hub. You can (and should) climb the stairs to the top for a 360° view
• Skanderbeg Square: This vast, central plaza is Tirana's undisputed epicentre and is easily recognizable by the Skanderbeg Statue standing at its heart. It's surrounded by the Opera, the National History Museum and the beautiful Et'hem Bej Mosque
• Blloku District: Once a gated neighborhood for communist party officials, Blloku has reinvented itself as a hip place of cool restaurants, bars, and boutiques. This is the liveliest place to be in the evening

Final thoughts

A road trip through Albania is an unforgettable journey through a land of incredible diversity. In just over two weeks, you can experience the dramatic peaks of the Alps, the idyllic shores of the Riviera, and the layered histories of its ancient cities. That contrast is the country's magic.

The country is safe, the people are warm, and it feels like a nation in the middle of a well-deserved renaissance. Things may not always go exactly to plan and you might experience some chaos along the way but if you come with an open mind and embrace the adventure, you will be rewarded with incredible experiences and the genuine, welcoming hospitality of the Albanian people.