Corniglia, the quirky middle child of Cinque Terre, is unique as the only village not directly accessible by sea. It is perched 100 meters above the Ligurian Sea and is accessible by climbing the Lardarina, a long brick flight of stairs with 33 switchbacks and 382 steps from the train station. It's a thigh-burner, but the panoramic views of the sea and vineyards are worth every gasp for breath. Alternatively, there is a shuttle bus from the train station, but it can be infrequent and crowded.

What to see and do

Once you've conquered the stairs, the village itself is a labyrinth of narrow streets and colorful houses, offering a quieter, more laid-back atmosphere than its neighbors. Must-sees include the Church of San Pietro and the small but charming main square, Largo Taragio.

Although the village is perched above the sea, you can still access the shoreline via steep stairs (a 10-minute climb from the center). Just follow the hand-painted wooden signs pointing to "Al Mare" or "Via alla Marina". Don't expect a sandy beach though, it features a sheltered cove made of rocks and a concrete platform but remains a perfect sunbathing and swimming spot.

For nature enthusiasts, Corniglia offers several hiking trails that connect to the other villages, including the famed Blue Trail leading to Vernazza. While hiking to Manarola along the Blue Trail is currently not an option, an alternative route exists via the charming village of Volastra. This 5.5 km hike winds through numerous vineyards and offers exceptional views of the surrounding area (expect a 2-3h hike).

Corniglia's remote location means fewer tourists, giving it a more authentic feel. However, it also means limited accommodation options and fewer restaurants compared to the other villages.

Restaurants and bars in Corniglia

For breakfast:

• Bar Pan e Vin: This bar offers a variety of pastries, coffee, and breakfast options in a cozy atmosphere. It's a great spot to start your day
• Caffè Matteo: A popular spot for breakfast in Corniglia, serving excellent coffee and fresh pastries

For quick bites & takeout food:

• Andrea's Corniglia: A popular choice for quick, delicious bites, offering fresh sandwiches, local specialties, and a selection of drinks
• Bar Pan e Vin: Besides breakfast, this bar also serves light snacks and quick bites perfect for a mid-day refuel
• Alberto Gelateria: Famous for its artisanal gelato, this place is ideal for a sweet treat while exploring the village. Try the basil gelato drizzled with extra-virgin olive oil

For lunch & dinner:

• Marina di Corniglia: A restaurant and bar with stunning sea views, located near the marina, and offering local seafood, pasta, and traditional Italian dishes
• A Cantina de Mananan: A small, rustic restaurant known for its authentic Ligurian cuisine, including seafood and pasta dishes. Don’t miss out on the typical acciughe (anchovies) and testaroli, a special southern Ligurian pasta. Book in advance
• Ittiturismo Corniglia SP4488: Specializes in seafood, offering dishes made from freshly caught fish in a picturesque setting and with incredible views. Book in advance

For drinks:

• Terra Rossa: Run by welcoming ladies, this vibrant wine bar offers a wide selection of wines as well as small plates to go alongside. Recommended to book in advance
• Terza Terra: Offers breathtaking views and a good wine selection, making it a great spot to relax with a drink, especially at sunset
• La Scuna: Offers cocktails and craft beers on a great terrace in a laid-back atmosphere. Definitely another great place to head for sunset