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Cinque Terre & Porto Venere

An essential guide to Monterosso al Mare

By Benoit Collin

Last updated: 2024-12-05

Monterosso al Mare, or simply Monterosso, is the northernmost and largest of the five villages and arguably the most resort-like town. The village is divided into two areas linked by a tunnel: the newer Fegina area, a more modern section with both tourist and residential buildings, and the Old Town, known for its iconic colorful houses and narrow streets where you will find most restaurants, wine bars and bakeries.

What to see and do

Within the Old Town, the Church of San Giovanni Battista is a highlight. After wandering through the colorful streets, make your way up to Torre Aurora, a 13th-century tower that was once part of the village’s fortifications. From there, continue ascending to the 16th-century Chiesa di San Francesco and the Capuchin monastery, where you'll be rewarded with a breathtaking panorama of the surrounding area.

Without a doubt, the beach is Monterosso's biggest draw. One of the primary reasons many visitors choose Monterosso as their base in the Cinque Terre is its unique feature: the only sandy beaches along this stretch of coast

  • You can't miss the overly-photographed orange and green umbrellas of Fegina beach. This is the largest and most beautiful sandy beach in Monterosso, situated directly opposite the train station. Nearly the entire beach is taken up by lidos, which are private / paid beach clubs, with Stella Marina being the most popular. But be prepared: in peak season, you’ll be sharing that perfect spot with every sunbather in Italy and it's highly recommended to arrive early to secure your sunbed (pro tip: some can be reserved ahead of time). There's a small section of free beach where you can lay your towel at no cost, but it quickly fills up and gets very crowded during the summer.
  • Il Gigante beach, located further West, is considerably smaller with 2 lidos but remains a good alternative if Fegina beach becomes too crowded. It's home to an impressive statue of Neptune, a towering figure carved into the rock.
  • Tragagia beach, located by the Old Town, is the 3rd option, with a larger free beach area (generally less crowded but gravelly)

For the adventurous, several ambitious hikes begin in Monterosso. The most famous is the Sentiero Azzuro (or Blue Trail), a coastal path that connects Monterosso to Vernazza and continues to Corniglia, providing breathtaking coastal views. Alternatively, you can hike to the Punta Mesco viewpoint or to Monterosso's Soviore sanctuary.

Keep in mind that Monterosso is no hidden gem. In the summer, it feels like the whole world has descended upon this tiny village. With its popularity comes a higher price tag, meaning accommodations and meals can be expensive. And while there are more restaurants in Monterosso compared to other parts of the Cinque Terre, it is highly recommended to make reservations in advance to secure specific dinner spots.

Restaurants and bars in Monterosso

For breakfast:

  • Pasticceria Bar Laura: Known for its delectable pastries, including the local 'torta monterossina', stuffed with jam and chocolate. A perfect start to the day
  • Ely Caffe: Another solid option for breakfast serving excellent coffee, freshly squeezed orange juice, cornetto a la crema and foccacia, in a modern setting

For quick bites & takeout food:

  • Il Massimo della Focaccia: Serves some of the best local flatbreads, as well as other specialties like torta di riso (a savory rice tart) and torta verde (a savory pastry filled with greens). Perfect for a quick and tasty snack on a beach day
  • Il Frantoio: Take-away spot with few tables inside, serving different flavors of pizzas, Ligurian focaccias with olives, stracchino or plain. Ideal for a quick and satisfying meal

For lunch & dinner:

  • San Martino Gastronomia: A lovely spot to enjoy a meal, with dishes typical of the area: trofie with pesto, sea salad, swordfish with olives, seafood pappardelle, octopus salad, etc. Only a handful of tables outside
  • La Cantina del Pescatore: A small wine bar and eatery offering small plates, including focaccias, a variety of appetizers and cheese & charcuterie boards. A good option for breakfast as well
  • L'Osteria: A family-run restaurant offering delicious fresh seafood. A cozy atmosphere inside with a few tables outside in the shadow of the church
  • Taverna Galin: Delicious and fresh seafood, warm and welcoming service and lovely decor. You can't go wrong here. Advance booking is advised
  • Causapersa: Known for its creative and contemporary take on classic Italian fare
  • L'Ancora della Tortuga: Family-run restaurant built into the cliff and bringing to the table the traditional Ligurian seafood and land cuisine. Ideal for a romantic dining experience. Book in advance
  • Ristorante la Terrazza: Best known for its panoramic terrace and great Mediterranean cuisine, on the pricey side

For drinks:

  • Enoteca da Eliseo: Ideal for trying the wines of the Cinque Terre or typical local products in a charming, intimate setting. The owners Eliseo and Mary are always welcoming
  • Enoteca Internazionale: The oldest wine shop in Monterosso, offering a great selection of local wines accompanied by small bites