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An Insider Guide to Kotor in Montenegro

By Benoit Collin

Last updated: 2025-04-01

Nestled at the edge of a fjord-like bay, Kotor is a town that lives and breathes history. Its Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a preserved maze of Romanesque, Gothic, and Venetian architecture. Stepping through its ancient gates (the Old Town is encircled by 4.5 km of fortifications), you enter a labyrinth of cobbled lanes where you’ll discover tiny medieval churches, aristocratic palaces with green shutters, and quirky courtyards.

Exploring the Old Town

The moment you pass the main seaside entrance gate (Sea Gate), you immediately come across an attractive square, home to the famous Clock Tower (not open to the public). St. Tryphon Cathedral, with its twin towers, stands as the proud 12th-century centerpiece of the town, a reminder of Kotor’s status as an important artistic and trading center in the Middle Ages. Step inside (4€ entrance fee) to see faded frescoes, visit the small museum upstairs (displaying a collection of artifacts, masterpieces of medieval art) and get access to the balcony between the two towers, from where you have a beautiful view of the square in front of the cathedral.

If you really want to learn about the town’s maritime past, the Maritime Museum is the place where it all comes alive. Housed in a stunning palace, the museum is filled with model ships, weaponry and exotic charts from Kotor’s seafaring days. The audio guide provided is excellent and provides deeper context on the artifacts on display. I highly recommend a visit!

Local life also thrives here if you pause to notice. Each morning, just outside the Sea Gate, locals flock to the Gradska Pijaca Market for fresh produce, cheese, and Adriatic fish straight off the boat (although be aware that prices are often not displayed and some traders increase their prices for cruise ship passengers).

Feline Friends and Quirky Corners

Don’t be surprised if you find yourself sharing a bench with a few furry residents. Kotor is famous for its cats and they are absolutely EVERYWHERE (which might come as bad news if you suffer from severe allergy). There's this little square in Kotor that locals lovingly call 'Cat Square' which seems to be the unofficial hangout spot for Kotor’s feline population. You’ll spot them lounging on benches, strutting around like they own the place, or casually strolling up to say hi. In this town, cats and humans coexist in harmony, to the point that there’s even a Cats Museum around the corner, filled with vintage cat-themed art and trinkets collected over decades.

Climbing the Ancient City Walls to St. John’s Fortress

A section of the walls surrounding the Old Town is accessible to the public free of charge. This section wraps around the western and northern edges of the Old Town, right along the Scurda River and the Bay. To hop on this scenic route, just head to the little park with the fountain by the River Gate (also called the North Gate). From there, take the stairs up to the wall and stroll the path all the way to the Gurdić Bastion near the South Gate (~15 min walk). It’s a great way to get a different perspective over the Old Town.

For a literal overview of Kotor, lace up your shoes and climb the city walls to the fortress of St. John (San Giovanni) high above the town (access to the trail costs €15). This is the classic Kotor experience: a hike up 1,350+ stone steps, through old gates and ramparts that zigzag up the mountainside. Yes, it’s a workout, over 70 switchbacks in the hot sun. But every time you pause to catch your breath, the view behind you takes it away again.

Halfway up, a tiny stone church called Our Lady of Health offers a peaceful spot to rest and reflect (locals would climb here to pray for protection during past plagues). Keep climbing and you’ll reach the crumbling Austro-Hungarian-era fortress walls at the summit. From this perch, Kotor is a postcard come to life and it’s especially magical at sunrise or sunset.

💡 Local tip: if you go early in the morning, not only will you beat the heat and crowds, you might even avoid the €15 ticket fee. Many hikers venture up at dawn and get back down before the ticket booth opens (8AM to 8PM from May to September). The staff checks tickets on the way back and will ask you to pay if you get back without a ticket after 8AM.

💡 Local tip #2: For the adventurous, an alternative route down (or up) is the Ladder of Kotor, a rugged old caravan trail that snakes up the mountain beyond the fortress. This trail is free to access and starts just beside the old water power plant outside the town's fortifications. Fewer people go that way, and it’s longer (an 8-mile round trip if done fully). It also involves entering the fortress "illegally" from the back side through a fortress window

Exploring the Bay of Kotor

Kotor sits at the far end of the Bay of Kotor, often described (not inaccurately) as the Mediterranean’s only fjord. Exploring the bay is key to understanding Kotor’s soul. One popular way is by boat tour: along the waterfront, kiosks offer trips out on the blue waters, and a typical route includes the Our Lady of the Rocks island. Boatmen will shuttle you there to see the church’s gilded interior and bizarre relics (including a tapestry embroidered with the hair of a local woman who waited for her sailor sweetheart).

If you’re inclined, continue the boat ride out to the Blue Cave at the bay’s entrance. It’s undeniably beautiful, though keep in mind on a busy summer day you won’t be the only boat there. Some tours even swing by this wild old submarine tunnel from the Yugoslav days. It’s carved right into the cliffs and totally gives off secret-agent vibes. While the group tours are cool, they can feel a little touristy. If you're after something more chill and tailored, some local crews offer private trips. Dukan and Stefan, two brothers who run one of these tours, come highly recommended if you want an unforgettable day cruising the bay.

A couple of restaurant recommendations

Traveling meaningfully also means tasting the place. Kotor’s cuisine is a hearty blend of mountain and coastal influences. Think fresh seafood, Italian-inspired pastas, and cured meats and cheeses from the nearby villages. Below is a curation of top-rated restaurants for various budgets:

  • BBQ Tanjga ($): Sitting just outside the old town walls, this spot looks like a simple butcher shop at first glance. Step in and you’ll see cuts of meat lined up behind a glass counter, ready to be grilled to order. This no-fuss eatery has achieved near-legendary status for its enormous portions and bargain prices. Highly popular among locals
  • Restaurant Atrium ($$): Located near the south entrance of Kotor's Old Town, this restaurant is housed in a historic building that once housed a Franciscan monastery. Expect Mediterranean-inspired dishes with a modern twist and friendly service. Reservations are recommended.
  • Konoba Portun ($$): charming seafood restaurant with rustic decor located directly on the coast of Boka Bay in Dobrota. The restaurant features a beautiful outdoor terrace offering great seaside views, ideal for a romantic dinner
  • Restaurant Galion ($$$): Perched on the edge of the Bay of Kotor, just outside the city walls, this restaurant offers a fine dining experience with breathtaking views of the Adriatic Sea and the historic Old Town. Reservations are highly recommended, particularly for terrace seating during sunset.
  • Moments Restaurant ($$$): Nestled on the shore of Kotor Bay in Dobrota, the restaurant offers a fusion of traditional, modern, and trend-setting cuisine in a modern interior with live music. You can enjoy beautiful views of the bay from the terrace. Expect high prices (20-30€ for a main)

In the evenings, Kotor has a surprisingly lively bar scene for such a small town. There are a handful of wine bars and pubs tucked into the old stone buildings. Just outside the South Gate of the Old Town, the Nitrox Pub & Eatery offers an impressive selection of over 60 craft beers and 230 signature cocktails (no panic, the waiter will help you narrow the choices down based on your preferences)! Combined with live music, this makes it an ideal spot to relax after dinner